Summer Purse: Part 1, The Front Pocket

Finished size: 12" x 9" x 3".

It's been a three day marathon, but the new purse is finally finished.

I've had requests for a pattern, and I'm going to give it a bit of a try on this blog. I've never produced a pattern for a bag because it's always seemed overwhelming. Unfortunately, I sew a bit like I make soup. I start out with a vague idea and a few basic measurements - sort of. Then I toss things together as I go and wait to see what happens.

I'm warning you now. This is a learning experience. I hope it won't be a huge disaster!

Please, please tell me if any part of this tutorial needs to be corrected or clarified!

I'll give instructions for the entire outside of the bag, but I'm not quite sure how, or even if, I'll deal with the inside details.  You see, I was so focused on finishing the bag that I forgot to take important photos for the recessed zipper and the pockets in the lining. I have measurements for a basic lining with no recessed zipper, so that may have to do. Unfortunately, my hubby's right about me. I can be a total scatter brain. But, the lining and zipper are tales to be told much later. Or not. Or, then again, I just might have to make a second purse. Oh, dear. That's so sad. (said the lady with a grin)

Today, it's all about the front pocket.


The Front Pocket

Fabric & Materials Requirements
(These measurements are generous. It's better to have extra fabric for your stash than is is to run short.)

• 1 1/2 yard of lining. This will be used for the handles and sides of the bag as well as the inside lining. 
• 3/4 yard contrasting fabric for the recessed zipper and for the front and back sections of the bag.
• A 11" x 11" square of a third fabric for the pocket insert.
• Scraps for hexagons.
• 3/4 yard of bag batting such as Soft and Stable.
• An 9" x 12" piece of lightweight batting such as Warm and Natural.
• One small magnetic snap.
• One  18" nylon zipper for top of the bag. (Nylon zippers can be cut if they are too long.)
• One  9" zipper for the lining.
• 1 yard medium weight fusible interfacing. (This is to add stability to the lining.)
• Thread
• (optional) Invisible polyester thread.

Cutting measurements for the pocket back, front, and lining are 1" larger than needed to allow for trimming after quilting. 

Note: Seam allowances are 1/2" unless otherwise specified. 

Make the Hexagons

Make three hexagon that finish at  2 1/2" wide . I used a hexagon ruler to make a template. The hexagon that finishes 2" in height is perfect, but only if you use the 2 1/2" high cutting lines for the finished size.

You can sew the hexagons on any way you like. Fusible web applique would be fine. That's my usual approach. This time, though I wanted my purse to be a bit special, so  I experimented with a quick technique that is supposed to look like hand applique. It was scary, but it worked perfectly, so that's the method I've shown here.

1. Make three templates from freezer paper.

2.. Starch the fabric to make it very stiff before cutting it. I used an inexpensive spray starch from the supermarket.

3. Lay the freezer paper shiny side up on the wrong side of the fabric. I put a dot of quilt basting glue between the freezer paper and the fabric to hold it all in place temporarily.

4. If you're planning to turn edges under, cut the fabric 1/4" larger than the freezer paper template on all six sides.

5. Fold the edges down against the template one side at a time, and iron onto the shiny side of the freezer paper.

6. Carefully remove the freezer paper, then give the hexagon a really good press. When you do, press straight down and give it a good burst of steam! Flip to the other side and press again. Moving the iron back and forth will distort the shape. I know because I've lived to regret it. More than once. We scatterbrains do things like that.

7. Cut out an 8 1/2" x 11" rectangle of fabric for the pocket front.

8. Center the hexagons with their top edges  1 1/2" below the top edge of the pocket front. Line the hexagons up in a row with the side points just touching. Use pins or quilt basting glue to hold them in place for sewing. I used a dab of glue stick on each corner and in the center of each hexagon.

9. Stitch the hexagons in place. This was the new part for me.  I used invisible polyester thread and a shell tuck stitch. A very narrow zigzag stitch would work just as well, but I only recently discovered this stitch on my machine. I did have to reverse it. Love this new Babylock!

The second photo shows the stitch length and width. My choice was for short and narrow.

I stitched right along the edge of the hexagon. The straight stitches are just outside the applique, and the little inward stitches barely catch the edge. I was surprised that this really went so smoothly. Zip-zip, and done.

Look how clean that edge is! You have to get very close to tell that it hasn't been hand stitched in place. Giggle!

Make the Pocket Front.

1. Cut a 10" x 11" rectangle of fabric for the pocket lining.

2. Cut a piece of batting 8 1/2" x 11".
A heavier batting such as Soft and Stable is great for most of the bag, but the pocket needs a thinner batting, like Warm and Natural. Cut a piece of your thin batting to fit the pocket. Attach it to the wrong side of the pocket with quilt basting spray.

Note: I used a quilt basting spray and a quilt marking pen. These are my standbys - June Taylor spray and a Frixion pen.  The spray holds things together lightly so you can reposition everything easily. My lovely pen erases with the touch of a hot iron. 

 

3. Place the pocket front and the lining right sides together. Use a 1/4" seam allowance to sew along the top of the pocket through all three layers. Press the seam up to the lining.

4. I added the first half of a magnetic snap next. With the pocket sections open, mark a point in the exact center of the lining and 1 3/4" down from the seam.  Attach the magnetic snap to the right side of the lining at this mark. Push the prongs through the right side of the lining and then through a scrap of folded fabric on the wrong side of the lining.

5. Fold the lining over the batting and to the back of the pocket front. Do not fold the batting down. The 1/2" strip of lining that remains on the top of the pocket looks like binding, but is much easier to make than binding would be. (Photos found below will be helpful in seeing this.)

6. Baste around the outside edges of the layers pocket front, batting, and binding. Stitch right against the seam where the lining meets the front of the pocket.

7. Quilt however you like.
I used a diamond design that lined up with the hexagons. A 60 degree triangle ruler helped to keep the lines straight and even.

8. Square up and trim the pocket to 10 " wide and 7 1/2" high.

Right Side

Lining Side

Prepare the pocket back.  
The center insert forms the back of the pocket.  Later the entire pocket section will be inserted between side pieces on the front of the bag. 

1. Cut out the pocket back and a matching piece of your main batting. Soft and Stable was my choice for batting. 

2 Use quilt basting spray to hold the batting to the wrong side of the fabric. Quilt as you like.

3. Square up and trim to 10" x 10".

3.  Place the pocket on the center insert with the the bottom and side edges together. On the right side of the insert, mark the point where the other half of the snap needs to be placed.

4 Attach the snap with prongs going through the right side of the pocket insert and the batting. Snap the pocket onto the insert.

5. Stay-stitch close to the edge through all layers on the two sides and the bottom. leaving the top of the pocket open.

The finished pocket section including pocket and center insert.
 

And that's it for now. 

Coming Soon: Finishing the outside of the bag.

 

'Tis the Season: Scrap Busting Gift Bags Tutorial

I'm working on my final holiday shopping list.  Gift bags for little stocking stuffer items are on my list, but they seem like such a waste of money. However, I already have a drawer filled to overflowing with leftover fabric from Christmases past. This super quick pattern was just what I needed to bust my stash and to have reusable gift bags at absolutely no cost.

Sunday night, while watching a silly holiday movie, I chose the fabrics and cut out the pieces I'd need for these six little bags.  Monday, in under three hours, I completely finished all of them. The sewing, ribbon and all took less than half an hour per bag.

Finished Measurements

These bags are 9 1/2" wide and 10" tall. The base is 4" x 5". They are large enough to hold a large mug and assorted goodies, a scarf or a pair of gloves, a mini loaf of pumpkin bread, or an assortment of all sorts of other goodies. The top can be left open for larger items or pulled snuggly together for smaller items.

The white mug is a standard 12 oz size, 4 inches tall and 3 1/2" in diameter at the top.

Fabrics and Materials

• For the outside of bag: Either one fat quarter of fabric or two rectangles 9 1/2" x 13"
• For the lining: Either one fat quarter of contrast fabric or two rectangles 9 1/2" x 13"
• Two 28" lengths of ribbon for the drawstrings, 5/8" or 3/4" wide. (With a satin or other smooth surfaced ribbon in the drawstring carrier the bag will slide open and closed easily. A textured ribbon like a grosgrain will tend to make opening and closing the bag a little bit harder.)
• Thread
• Fray Check (A half and half mixture of Elmer's glue and water can be substituted for Fray Check

Cutting

•  Cut two rectangles, 9 1/2" x 13", from the main fabric and two of the same size from the lining fabric.
• Cut two strips of contrast fabric, 1 1/2" x 9".
• Cut and remove a 2"x 2" square from each corner of the bottom end of each rectangle.

   

Sewing Instructions
Sew all seams with a 1/4" seam allowance.

1. Fold the long edges of the 1 1/2" x 9" contrast fabric strip in 1/4". Press. Fold the two ends in 1/4". Press and stitch the two ends down.

  

2.  Align the top edge of a prepared contrast strip 2 1/4" down from the top of each piece of the main fabric. Center the strip 1/2" in from each side. Topstitch the long sides of the strips down with a narrow edge seam. Leave the ends open. These two strips make the carriers for the drawstrings.



3. With right sides together, sew the side seams and the seam at the bottom of the bag.

4. Sew the lining fabric in the same way, but leave a 2" space open along one side seam. This opening will be used to turn the bag when it's finished.  

5. Press all seams open. Press the edges of the opening in the lining back so they are even with the seam allowance.



6. Bring the side seams and the bottom seam of the 2" x 2" squares at the bottom of the bag together. Stitch straight across to make the boxed corners.





7. Turn the lining right side out and fit it inside the main bag. Line the seams up, and sew the bag and the lining together at the top.



8. Turn the bag right side out by pulling the entire piece through the opening in the side seam of the lining.

9. Close the opening with hand stitching, or machine sew it together with a narrow edge stitch.

  

10. Fold the lining to the outside of the bag and press the top seam flat. I pressed the lining to lie just barely below the main fabric.



11. From the front of the bag, topstitch right next to the upper edge of the carrier. Stitch all the way around the bag in one continuous seam.

 

12. Turn the bag right side out.

Inserting the ribbon for the drawstrings

1. Attach a safety pin to an end of one of the ribbon pieces. Begin on one of the carrier side openings. Insert the safety pin and pull the ribbon through. Cross to the next carrier and continue pulling the ribbon through that one, bringing the ribbon out on the same side that it went in.

  


2. Pull the two ends of the ribbon so the ends are even. Hold the ribbon ends together, make a loop and pull the ends through to tie in a knot.

  

3. Insert the second ribbon exactly like the first, but start on the other side of the bag.

  

4. Trim the ends of ribbon close to the knots and dab with a bit of Fray Check to prevent fraying.

5. Pull on the ends of the ribbons to close the bag.

Enjoy!!