Use 1/4” seam allowance for all seams.
The photos in this tutorial come from my Craftsy sewing pattern, “Trifold Crochet Hook Case”.
Note: When binding smaller projects like mug rugs and this crochet case, I always starch the fabrics before cutting. Fabrics that are stiffly starched will press firmly in place. This will make a huge difference when the time comes to press the mitered corners of the binding into a perfect 45-degree angle. Corners will keep their shape beautifully with minimal pinning when you do the final stitching on the front of the quilt.
1. Measure the distance around the item you will be binding. Add 6 inches to this measurement to find the length of the piece of binding you will need. (It's always better to be generous in cutting rather than skimpy.)
2. Cut strips of binding fabric 2 1/4” wide. If you need only a single strip, add 6 inches to the needed length. If you need more than one strip you will need to add the extra 6 inches when your strips are sewn together.
3. Cut the ends at a 45-degree angle. There are several ways to do this, but I usually use a rotary cutting ruler with a 45-degree angle on one end.
4. Sew the strips right sides together as shown in the photo. Press open. Measure to make sure that you have the extra six inches in length.
5. Fold the length of binding in half and press. It will now measure 1 1/8 inches in width.
Note: you will be stitching the binding to the back of your quilt.
6. Place a pin to hold in the binding in place at the center of one side. Lay the binding along the back of your quilt. The raw edge of the binding should be against the raw edge of the quilt with the folded edge pointing inward.
7. Allow six inches of unattached binding before beginning to sew. Backstitch a few stitches, then stitch to within 1/4” of the corner.
9. Lift the presser foot and turn toward the corner. Stitch diagonally right through the edge of the corner. Remove the quilt and snip the threads.
10. Turn the quilt. Fold the binding straight up. This will create a diagonal fold into the corner. Then fold the binding back down. Make sure the top of the fold is even with the edge you just stitched. The raw edge should line up evenly with the next side to be stitched.
11. Stitch down the next side to within 1/4” of the corner and repeat steps 9 and 10.
12. Continue stitching the binding to the edges of the quilt and mitering the corner turns until you are within 6 inches of the pin holding the other end of the binding in place. Backstitch, remove quilt from the machine and snip threads.
13. Place the two loose ends of the binding together. Use a pin to mark exactly 1/4” back from the cut edge on the fold of the first section of the binding. Lay the end of the other section of binding right on top of, or tucked right under, the first piece. Make sure the binding lies smoothly along the edge of the quilt.
14. Put a pin through the fold of this end in exactly in the same place as the first pin. This pin will serve as a cutting guide.
15. Open this end of the binding and lay it right side up on a cutting mat. Carefully measure 1/4” out from the pin toward the uncut end of the binding. You will be adding 1/4” to the binding before cutting it.
16. Cut at a 45-degree angle that matches the angle of the original cut.
17. Place the two ends of the binding right sides together and stitch 1/4 inch from the edge just as you did when attaching strips of binding to each other.
18. Press the seam open. Refold and press the binding. Lay it in place along the quilt edge and stitch in place. Snip threads.
19. Turn the quilt over to the back. Press the straight seams flat. Don’t press the corners from this side.
20. Turn to the front. Fold the binding in and press all along the sides. At the corner, continue pressing along the same fold.
21. Turn the quilt a quarter turn. Beginning at the corner you just worked on, fold this side over and press. Continue until all sides are pressed in place. Pin.
22. Stitch close to the edge of the binding all around the quilt.
|Front and Back Views|